Trinity...

The first of my three projects went down the other day.

Trinity, V11 was the outcome. This one had been on the table for years. But due to the horrible landing it was never really tried. A few weeks back Leif, Dan and I did some work to make the landing better. After a some work another stunning line goes down in CT. Thanks to Doug Hyland for the pictures.

Now as I'm writing this, 5 fresh inches of snow is getting rained on to create the most slushy conditions. I predict lots of icy top outs...

Still Grinding Away...

Little has happened since my last post. I've still been grinding away at my projects. Still hoping to climb one. The weather has been ok, a mix of sun and rain. I've put alot of work into this particular project close to home.

Although a bit low ball, this one packs a punch. I one mover if you may. I've spent 4 days on this one move.

Just a bump to a 3 finger edge,

4 days and finally I stuck it once. I'm not sure how tough it will be. But after making some repeats in the area. Climbing on this one feels like it could clock in around V12/13.

I hope to have the good problem of coming up with a name and grade soon.

The PJ's...

Since my unexpected stay here in Ct. started I've been steady searching for those new lines. So far I've come across a some large boulders, unfortunately mostly choss. But there are still stunning lines out there. Some of them are all ready to be climbed and some still need to be found. All of the climbs that I have my eye on here in CT are all new lines. I am very excited to hopefully climb some of them during my stay here and also excited to share the media.

Change...

"The only constant in life is change." Some good advise my father instilled in me at an early age. I recently had some plans change and now I find myself back in CT for about a month. I am excited to be here since it was unexpected. Hopefully the weather will stay perfect for climbing.

So far the weather has been great. After a few nice days in Rumney I meet up with a friend yesterday at Bradley in my beautiful state of Connecticut. Knowing that climbing at Bradley is kind of a sensitive issue I'll say this. I grew up 20 min away and since the climbing there is risky I do what I can to stay under the radar.

With that said yesterday I was out with my friend shooting for his up coming video project. I was not feeling in top form, 3rd day on and with bruised tips from the previous two days on The Fly. After warming up lightly I ran a lap on Busted Shadow. Then gave The Book a few burn's. I surprised myself with a repeat. That was unexpected I thought, maybe I should give the low low start to Busted Shadow a try. I had done it last year and just need to practice the first move a bit. Then the next thing in knew I had repeated this one as well. Although just repeats I still felt very satisfied. Maybe staying around for a month will not be so bad.

The Magic Forest...

If you love climbing or are wishing to climb in Font watch this movie.

Many climbing films can be repetitive and cliche. This movie contains depth, action, and many many good problems.

Highly recommendable!!!

Long Day...

So after driving in circles around Boston for three hours and going to the wrong gym, I finally made it to the comp (1.5 hrs late.) I dragged my mate Ty with me who has been busy with lots of school work and hadn't climbed but only twice in that last 3-4 months. We quickly secured our spots in the finals and then waited for the finals to start. Over all, the comp was fun and we had a good time. The final problems were a bit too power endurance for us since we are more accustom to powerful problems but non the less they were set well. I ended up getting 3rd and Ty was somewhere a spot or two behind me. Not bad mate considering, climbing in a pair of my shoes, sharing a chalk bag and climbing off the couch!

I'm not sure what's on my plate for the rest of my time here in CT. The weather look good for next week so I guess I'll see what happens.

I'm really excited to see 2012. THE END IS COMING SOON!!!

The Dark Horse....

Tomorrow I will be going to the first competition of The Dark Horse series, which will be held at Metro Rock in Boston. My friend Dave Wetmore will be setting so the problems should be outstanding.

On a side note I want to explain why some comments were taken off my last blog post. I was unaware of a few access issues and I was politely asked to remove some of my comments concerning PA.

I would never remove a comment based of something I didn't like or found to be insulting. I love to get comments and encourage people to leave comments. They make the blog exciting for me.

I'm not sure how long my time in CT will be. I'm hoping to get in some outdoor climbing since it is November (the best month for conditions). Luckily the weather for tomorrows comp looks like pure hell (80% rain). Great day to be inside without sacrificing a nice day outside.

HP40...

I just arrived back to the Beat (Hartford CT). I was at the Triple Comp at HP40 this weekend, which was great. I didn't win or even place, (Big Surprise). But I did climb much better that I thought I would. The best climbs that I did were, The God Module V11, Slider Sit V10, Hot-n-Tot V10, and Step Child V8. I did a bunch more climbs but those were my fav's. I think I might have ended up 5th so I can't complain too much. My hats off to the winners who climbed very well.

Oh, by the way I only split one little tip at the HP40 comp compared to 6 split tips at Hound Ears...

Free Range Video...

The Free Range video is up. Visit www.deadpointmag.com

Free Range...

I love having good climbing spots in my backyard. Boulder Canyon has got to be one of the best backyard spots in the U.S.. Since the end of this years park season come for me. I've been giving my local spots more attention. Free Range (the V13 sit start to Cage Free,) located in Boulder Canyon is in my opinion one of the best test pieces around. A hard tricky start climbs into a desperate dyno to the lip. I've had my eye on this one for a while.

So after a snowy day waiting around for the weather to clear up. I headed up and, Did Work!

Free Range !!! Video soon...

Ode...

Check out www.deadpointmag.com for a nice day out at the Dali wall!!!

Ty combs his hair...

Crazy events have brought me back to Ct. for a week. I wish it was a good reason why I'm back but either way I believe things happen for a reason and in the end, it will be ok.

I have managed to climb a bit while I've been back. Today I dragged my lil' cuz Tyler out. Ty has been focusing his time on school work and not climbing much, so I didn't expect him to come and beast one of the hardest problems around.

We warmed up on some classics then went straight to this amazing test piece named Suspect Device. Suspect Device is graded V11 and I bet people reading may think "One of the hardest around?" Well The grade on this one doesn't really matter much. I've only heard of one person climbing it in a day. Most people have spent a few days on it. I spent about 5 years on it before I climbed it. Needless to say this is a savage line and very respectable to climb it, let alone in a day. Ty made very quick work of it after nearly flashing it (flashing way past the crux.) He may look a bit rusty at the end but the strength to get through the beginning is still there. Nice one mate!

Suspect Device V11 from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Hound Ears...

Post savage climbing day.

Hound Ears was lot of fun. A lot of sharp holds and many problems left me brutalized.

I think I may have ended up 4th which is cool since every problem I did was new for me. And all were done with 5 split tips. One tip had 3 splits on it WTF!!!

The hardest one I climbed was called Random Man V11,

Thanks to Dave Wetmore for the stills. And check out www.meaning2memorize.com for Max making the 2nd ascent and me having a nice freak out. Just one of many I had during the day. I know I'm a P. Ham.

All jokes aside the comp was great and I would tell anyone to go. The organizers did a great job and if I'm around next year I'll be there.

A report from the CO high country is that a fresh foot+ has fallen. This may be the end of season but you never know what will happen up there. It could be 80 deg. tomorrow.

Training Hard...

Climbing in RMNP can be pretty dangerous.

But in the end its worth it.

I've been climbing alot outside preparing for this weekend. Tomorrow I'm leaving for the first of the Triple Crown Bouldering Comps. The first comp kicks off Saturday morning at Hound Ears, outside Boone N.C.. I lived in Boone for 4 months during the fall of 1999. I climbed my first V6 and V7 there at Blowing Rock. My time in Boone opened the door to bouldering for me. Needless to say I'm excited to go back for the first time in 10 years.

Yesterday as my final training day, I headed back to Upper Chaos to circuit and climb Pterodactyle. The weather was snowy and a bit wet. The thought of toping out the highball-ish Pterodactyle seemed crazy so I headed over to the savage little Friday the 13th.

After running a lap the skies cleared but enough to give Pterodactyle a burn.

After figuring it out the other evening. I knew I had a good shot to send first try. I pulled on and pumped my way to the top. I had dropped back from here two times before. This time I knew what to do and toped it out. Not that it's the scariest thing I've climbed but it's the scariest in a while so my heart was beating pretty fast. I spent the rest of the day circuiting and left exhausted.

When get back from N.C. I'll be spending most of my remining time in the park this season, suffering on Aslan.

Fall Time...

Yesterday my wingman J.P. and I headed to Mt. Evans for a late afternoon sesh. As readers may remember the last time I went to Evans my finger looked like this.

Last time,

This time my finger looked like this,

Which means that I finished Ode,

J is unfortunately recovering from shoulder surgery and didn't get to climb. I finished off the day repeating some classics,

hopeing to get some training in for Hound Ears next weekend. Fall is here and the conditions are perfect.

I Comb My Hair Like God...

Today I went to the park with my side kick Matt. We arrived to what looked like primo conditions.

Bear lake.

I wanted to finish off my project, the undone low start to Jamie Emerson's Mirkwood. Matt was keen on Mirkwood so off we went. The clouds backed off a bit as we made it to our destination. But there was still some snow in the air. I was close last time to sending the low start so after warming up I managed it second try.

I'm not one for re-naming a sit start or low start. But since everyone else does I'm naming it, I Come My hair Like God V12(maybe). I'm not sure about the grade. My gut tells me v11 but I don't want to be a sandbagger.

Matt was doing well on Mirkwood,

But then this got in his way,

Later we walked down to Top Notch, I had been trying this for a while now. I could never do the first move. After a beta discussion I was enlightened to a new way to do the first move. And it worked.

I was really happy to finish Top Notch. The name says a lot about the problem, it is one of the best, high caliber problems.

After a day like this lunch was well deserved,

Video of each problem coming soon.

The Last Day Of Summer...

I went up to the park this past Tuesday.

It just happened to be the last day of summer. From the picture it looks more like the first day of winter. It's ok though I know it's not over yet.

On the bright side my friends from Dungeon Training arrived,

They were sycked to see me and I predict the best of times to come.

Today I was blessed with the new Team shoe from 5.10,

I can't wait to climb in these. I'm also prediction that these shoes will become my new favorite.

Today my mates from Dungeon Training are arriving. They are making the trip from the Yay Area, driving out in style.

I'm very sycked to have the bro's out here. And just when the temps are dropping and the summer is ending.

Good form!

Ode..

Yesterday I made my first trip of the season to Mt Evans. My bro's and I left early to ensure we'd get there before the sky's opened up on us. I had my mind set on finishing up Ode since I was close last year.

I was making good progress

until,

I looked back to my last blog entry about Ode and came across this familiar image,

Kind of a bummer. Once I heal up I'll be back again. Hopefully with out another picture.