Saturday, November 22, 2008

Last day in the East Side (for now)...

Bishops' time is coming to an end.  The daytime high's have been in the mid 70's everyday.  Just not good enough!  There were 3 days of good conditions in the beginning.  Climbing hit a high point then.  Unfortunately for the last couple of weeks our days have been spent waiting for the end of the day in hopes of cold conditions.  We busted out the lanterns a few times without much luck.  All in all, holding out for the last hour of the day every day has left us unmotivated.  So the end result of all that banter is, The Swarm didn't go.  When it was cold I thought I might be able to lock it down but in the end I couldn't.  Next time.   I think The Swarm also hurt my right pinky finger.  It doesn't hurt too bad, just feels inflamed on the top side of the knuckle.  At least we've been chillin' with some cool peeps', Mark and Tilly from Down Unda.  Great job Tilly on the FFA of Stained Glass (with a nasty bloody split tip, respect).  And my homeboy from the Yay Area, Will.  

Nikki and are leaving for the Yay on Sunday.  We're planning on spending a couple of weeks, chillin' with family and friends, and training in the dungeon.  From there we're planning a return visit to Bishop then on to Hueco.

Here is a video of my best effort on The Swarm and my consolation prize, The Mystery.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Split tips and bruised egos...

Its been hot to say the least here in bishop.  About 75 deg. every day which leaves us waiting for the sun to go under the mountains or lantern sessions at night has been our only salvation. Nikki has been working 3 very stunning lines and is going to wrap them up any time now. My mate Will has been climbing very well, sending the classic soul slinger and is close to the power test piece Center Direct.  As for me I've been puntin' it on The Swarm.  Its not that I can't do the moves or the problem is above my head, I just cant seam to get the 4th move on link.  The first 2 or 3 moves are, excuse me, piss.  I've done them many times from the start now but with this warm weather what can I expect.  In addition my left ring finger is so close to splitting that I'm going to have to take some time off it.  Supa Bummed....

Well now that I've cried out my sorrows here are a few pictures that nikki and I took of the last few days.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008


We've been in Bishop for a week now and things are going fairly well.  The first couple days were hot!  Now temps have cooled off and the conditions are amazing. After getting settled I went straight to work on Direction.  For me this line climbs some of the best patina I have ever seen.  Direction isn't the purest line but it makes up for it with incredible  movement on nice holds.  I tried Direction last year so I knew what to do and hooked it up in a few sessions.  Since then I have been working on The Swarm.  What a stunning line!  I've climbed through the first two moves a good number of times now.  Hopefully my fingers stay strong and I'll satch it up.

Here is Direction...

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Still In SLC...

After my last post I figured my next one would be from Ibex or Bishop but no, we are still in SLC.  Nikki and I have been having a great time hanging with our friends and family.  We were dead set to leave on Sunday but the forecast for Monday looked fair and I wanted one more chance to climb my nemesis, Bully.  I've tried Bully many days on visits during the summer when temps were up in the 90's.  Dumb I know but the problem is so classic in my mind that I kept going back.  So to make a long and drawn out story about my time spent trying to climb this problem short, I'll break it down like this.  5 days over two summers enduring 90+ deg. heat plus two ok days this time around is what it took me to complete bully.  A huge weight is now off my back.

Here is the video of the ground breaking accent (hahaha).

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Sittin in SLC

Nikki and I have been in Utah for the last 8 days.  The trip has been great except for the climbing side.  Nikki and I took some time getting into the style at Joe's and we fell short of our goals.  For me Black Out was my prime objective.  At first it was going well, I managed all the moves and started going from the start.  Shortly there after I split my left middle and ring finger tips at once.  Needless to say I was out, on Black Out.  Nikki is gunning for the V8 mark on this trip so feeling weak in Joes was a letdown for her. 

Now we are staying at my Uncle Carl's house in Salt Lake.  Nikki and I got a day at LCC and we had a nice time toughening up our tips for Bishop.  I put together a short video of Joes and one problem in LCC I hope ya'all  enjoy.