Monday, February 2, 2009

All Ready.....


I know it’s been a while since my last post and there have been many up’s and down’s.  Now with 3 climbing days left it’s down to the wire. Nikki’s been climbing very well and hooking up many nice problems.  Her latest send was Chris’s Arete.  Although it’s given V8 in the book, many as well as Nikki feel it’s a bit soft.  No matter what the grade is Nikki took a chick piss on it. Nikki has improved greatly over the last 2 months and it’s been exciting for me to see her progression.


Burg,


 has been on a streak climbing many 7c+’s in “A Day”.  Not bad for being off the couch.  I’ve been battling it out with Esperanza,


 gettin’ close but after having a bad last day on it, I steeped off.  I decided that I needed a rehabilitation day so yesterday Burg and I set off with the intention of climbing some classics and giving our “PJ’s” a break.  We started off at the nice but low ball Stanage on Holiday, then moved on to Theater of the Absurd.  I tried Theater 4 or 5 years back so I figured out some beta then desperately sketched my way to the top.  Burg followed suit shortly after, falling off the last move on his first try. Then, he climbed back to the last move where he paused for an eternity before he finished it off.


We were happy with the day and decided to walk up to the top of the chains.  On the way we made a brief stop at Chablanke.  I’ve never had success with this one so I decided to give it a few burns.  I figured out how to hold the pinch


 and how to move off it. 


 Not bad considering I’ve tried Chablanke at least one every trip I’ve made to Hueco.  This year the stars were aligned correctly and I sent it with the quickness.


Happy with the day Burg and I bagged the top of the chains and busted it to “Ross Dress for Less” where I hooked up a dope flannel hoody, sycked.


Now we have a few days left to salvage.  My spirits are getting better after our “re-hab” day so now it’s back to battling with Esperanza.  


Here's my queen on her first "V8"

video

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