Friday, March 13, 2009


With all the bad news at Bradley I’ve been going to Great Barrington quite a bit.  2 trips this week and with that I’ve finished the last established problem on the speed boulder.  The last one to go was Double Down, V13.  Double Down was first done as a stand and it was the first problem on the boulder.  I’m not sure as to the date but I know it was at least 7 years ago, probably more.  The sit start was put up by my good friend Dan Yagmin maybe 3 years ago, possibly sooner.  Its is a 4 move power problem which may be my new favorite of the boulder.  When we arrived to the speed boulder it was wet, shocking.  We spent a good 40 min drying out the holds and eventually got them dry enough to climb.  Notice how my left hand blows off the wet crimp at the top almost sending my down the steep hill.

After my quick send I decided to give Something from Nothing a repeat burn which I successfully did.  Something is quite a bit easer but still has all the qualities of a great problem.  After the speed boulder we all went over to Kindered Spirits, V9 and True Bleau, V10.  I wanted to do True Bleau for some time now and today was the day.  After falling on the top a couple times I desperately got my ass up it in true font style, schetchy.  

The weather looks good for clear into next week so we’ll se what happens next.  

Enjoy Double Down,

Double Down from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.


adam strong said...

bradley's closed, you sent everything else, the only reason to stay east is dunkin donuts

Phillip Schaal said...

Yeah and I'm sick of DD too. Never mind I'll never be sick of DD.