Saturday, March 6, 2010


I've been back at climbing for about the last month. Today I felt like I had the same strength I had before my rest. For the most part gym climbing is what I've been up to. Also making sure to get outside a few times a week too. Back in November before I left CO for a few months, I was close to finishing a hard problem in Clear Creek named Echale. All negatives aspects aside, Echale is a stout roof that requires alot of power.

Is Echale chipped?
Is it glued?
Is it dug out and a bit low ball?
Yes and Yes

Well there are some pros too. Its not sharp, its very powerful, the moves are fun, and it's easy to climb on without a spot. The rock is good quality too.

I've worked on Echale on and off and have gotten close to finishing it in the past. Today after another few days on it building up the strength I almost finished it again. What screwed me was some clever beta for the hard campus finish (well I thought it was clever beta at the time.)

But today I realized it took effort instead of just campusing and I dropped the last move feeling strong.

Bugger! Well I'm also very happy to have gotten that far which means I'm getting my strength back.

Chipping holds is a bad idea. Good moves on good rock are what I'm about. Add in a safe landing and it's a hard one to ignore.


ww said...


Ryan J said...

What's the history on this problem? I know it is a DW fa, but I have wondered for years who chipped and glued it? Seems weird for a 14 yr old to take such aggressive measures.