I've been back at climbing for about the last month. Today I felt like I had the same strength I had before my rest. For the most part gym climbing is what I've been up to. Also making sure to get outside a few times a week too. Back in November before I left CO for a few months, I was close to finishing a hard problem in Clear Creek named Echale. All negatives aspects aside, Echale is a stout roof that requires alot of power.
Is Echale chipped?
Yes
Is it glued?
Yes
Is it dug out and a bit low ball?
Yes and Yes
Well there are some pros too. Its not sharp, its very powerful, the moves are fun, and it's easy to climb on without a spot. The rock is good quality too.
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I've worked on Echale on and off and have gotten close to finishing it in the past. Today after another few days on it building up the strength I almost finished it again. What screwed me was some clever beta for the hard campus finish (well I thought it was clever beta at the time.)
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But today I realized it took effort instead of just campusing and I dropped the last move feeling strong.
Bugger! Well I'm also very happy to have gotten that far which means I'm getting my strength back.
Chipping holds is a bad idea. Good moves on good rock are what I'm about. Add in a safe landing and it's a hard one to ignore.
2 comments:
yesss
What's the history on this problem? I know it is a DW fa, but I have wondered for years who chipped and glued it? Seems weird for a 14 yr old to take such aggressive measures.
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