Rock Spot..

I just wanted to thank everyone that came out for last night's 5.10 shoe/Stealth Paint demo. 

 Tomorrow night I'm going to be at Prime Climb (my home gym) and hope to see you all there...

Pimpin and Crimpin

I'm proud to say that Caroline Treadway from www.Pimpinandcrimpin.com posted up an interview with me along with some great pictures.  If anyone has a extra minute please check it out, I'm very happy about it.

Besides my first interview, climbing has been going well too.  I just returned from Rumney again where I climbed Parallel Universe (14a).  Parallel is 5 bolts long, it starts with a v10 boulder problem into a very pumpy 13a/b.  It was much harder for me than Super Nova based on the pump factor.  I'm starting to feel like a better sport climber each trip I make up to Rumney.  While I was in Rumney I was climbing with my fellow Ct. native Matt Wilder who climbed the Fly, nice one Matt.  

I'm also excited to be helping Five Ten with some shoe/Stealth Paint demos here in New England.  I'll be at The Rock Spot May 26th and Prime Climb May 28th.  If anyone will be around I encourage you to stop by and check out some shoes and learn about the new Stealth Paint.  I'll be offering to paint shoes for a 5.10$ fee.

Sport Bouldering...

The rain stopped here long enough to take a trip up to Rumney.  The main objective was to warm up on some of the boulders below the cliff, then try to finish off this 8c route called Super Nova.  Super Nova is only 4 bolts long and tackles an impeccable face of crimps and under-cuts.  It's one of the best climbs I've done.  I put some work into it years back and this time around I managed to finish it off quickly.  My friend Caroline Treadway was with us taking pictures and sent me the one below, thanks Caroline.

Here is a video of  Nikki climbing an unnamed V6 in Ct. and me on Satan's Choice, V11, at Rumney.  Satan's Choice is another one of my favorites.  I remember trying this problem years ago as well.  This time around I sent first try.

Satan's Choice from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Rain, rain, rain...

Its rained 6 out of the last 7 days.

This weather reminds me of time spent in Font, waiting for boulders to dry, like I'm doing in Ct.

So in honor to the magic forest, here's a video that my good friend Chris Taylor put together the other day.

Fata Morgana 8a (my only 8a in font) from back in '06

N.W. Day..

Yesterday was supposed to rain all day but instead the sun came out.  We headed up to the North West corner and stopped at a few road side bouldering spots.  The rock quality at these boulders is top notch.  

Here's a short video with 3 great problems...

N.W. Day from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

The Romper Room...

On a quick note I established a new V11 in central Connecticut yesterday.  Crazy roof climbing with pinches and toe hooks.  I'm calling it The Romper Room.

Here's some footage that I took of it the other day.  Its not amazing but it will do.

The Romper Room, V11 (fa) from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.