I Hate You With A Passion...

I hate you with a passion is the name of an album from one of my favorite bay (yay) area rappers, Andre Nickatina.  And that's exactly how I feel about Pawtuckaway State Park.  I'm 0 for 4 now for that swamp.  Today I thought was going to be my day for redemption.  The temps were a manageable 65 deg., and the rocks were dry.  I thought I was in, but I didn't take into account the black flies that were out with the savageness.  I couldn't focus on packing up my things with out going crazy let alone try to focus on climbing.  I never understood what people were saying about the black flies.  How could they be any worse than the flies in Ct.  Well now I totally understand.  

The place is fuked....

Who's Smiling Now....

Saturday I was frowning, today I cant wipe the grin off my face.  Thas right today I made the second ascent of Ty's, The Chelsea Smile, at lincoln Woods.

I was relived to finish it today since the temp's have been in the 80's.  This means that bouldering in the North East will become so gross, it will become pointless unless frustration motivates you.  My friend Taylor was out filming for his upcoming bouldering movie, so keep your eyes out for it. 

Shizza!

Excuses, excuses...

Well I'm sure as hell not smiling after yesterday.  Nikki and went to Lincoln Woods on what was the hottest day of the year.  Now today will beat yesterday, summer's arrived.  With temp reaching into the 80's and black flies swarming, it wasn't an ideal day to try a nasty sharp crimp problem, The Chelsea Smile.  Regardless of conditions I managed to fall on the last move twice for a grand total now of four times.  I'm worried that time is running out for this sort of climb here in the sweaty north east.  I'll give myself more time since it is still April and it cant be over yet.

Here is Ty making the first ascent.

Untitled from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Don't call it a comeback....

I've been out of touch with the blog lately.  Colorado was a nice relaxing trip but I didn't get much climbing in.  Now I'm back in Ct. trying to make a comeback.  I have my eye on a few more boulder problems in the north east.  But with the spring season more than halfway over its time to "Harden Up".  Another problem that might explain my lack of blogging is, the battery for my camcorder won't hold  a charge.  That might explain the lack of footage.  Or is it that I've been a punt lately.  I'll have go with the latter. 

To get some redemption from my Colorado trip.  Here is a video from the boulder that I booked my ticket for, before it was engulfed in snow. 

The Puke...

I decided to waste my time putting up a traverse into Big Big Love, which adds 6-7 moves at about v9 into an established V7 at Great Barrington.  I felt like it the outcome was V10 0r V11 since it was pumpy as hell.  I would love to see a repeat but I won't be holding my breath.  The line is fairly obvious and the climbing ok, but when stacked up against the other lines on the boulder it falls way short. 

Next week I'll be in Boulder.  I heard that people were climbing at Mt. Evans and I had some unfinished business there so I booked a ticket since the dali boulder was dry.  Then two day later, the front range had a blizzard.  I guess we'll see if I make up there or not.

Here is the the new classic,

The Puke from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.