Wednesday, March 31, 2010

I'm Going Going Back Back to Cali Cali...

Yep...

Thas right I'm leaving tomorrow. I'm going to miss Boulder!

But I'll be back just in time to get some late spring days in the high country.

Friday, March 26, 2010

What I'm Up To..






I've been enjoying the spring skiing at Eldora. After the last powder day (Eldora got 18 inches)
my appetite has exploded. With the possibility of more snow this afternoon climbing outside is ...... In the mean time I experimented with some home made doughnuts.

I'm also going to be leaving for Cali (East Bay) soon. I'm hoping to climb out side as much as I can but I have a feeling that I'll be training indoors (The Dungeon) mostly.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

RRR Recap...


What a great weekend. Over all a complete successes. I think I had one of the best clinics!

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Off To Sin City...

Yeah, well its time for the Red Rock Rendezvous and I cant wait to get there. This weekend is going to be great. Meeting new people and checking out new climbing areas is always fun. I'm also going to be teaching some footwork clinics on Saturday and Sunday. So it looks like it's going to be a exciting event.

I was a little bummed that I didn't finish Echale this week.


Hopefully once I get back I'll have some more time on it before I leave for California.


Saturday, March 6, 2010

PUNT!

I've been back at climbing for about the last month. Today I felt like I had the same strength I had before my rest. For the most part gym climbing is what I've been up to. Also making sure to get outside a few times a week too. Back in November before I left CO for a few months, I was close to finishing a hard problem in Clear Creek named Echale. All negatives aspects aside, Echale is a stout roof that requires alot of power.


Is Echale chipped?
Yes
Is it glued?
Yes
Is it dug out and a bit low ball?
Yes and Yes

Well there are some pros too. Its not sharp, its very powerful, the moves are fun, and it's easy to climb on without a spot. The rock is good quality too.


I've worked on Echale on and off and have gotten close to finishing it in the past. Today after another few days on it building up the strength I almost finished it again. What screwed me was some clever beta for the hard campus finish (well I thought it was clever beta at the time.)

But today I realized it took effort instead of just campusing and I dropped the last move feeling strong.

Bugger! Well I'm also very happy to have gotten that far which means I'm getting my strength back.

Chipping holds is a bad idea. Good moves on good rock are what I'm about. Add in a safe landing and it's a hard one to ignore.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Power Struggle..

If anyone in the North East misses this comp they are going to be sorry. My friends at Prime Climb always but on a great comp. And believe me it will be a good time. No paying for a slice of pizza there.

So I urge anyone who is thinking about it to just go, you won't be disappointed...