Phillip Schaal

England, France, and England...

2012-01-26T01:33:00.000-08:00

London

The Chunnel

Font

Coffee in Paris

Im sure no one's ever taken this shot before

Sheffield

I've waited my life for one of these

Crag X

Hubble

I've climbed a bit too.

NUGGETS!!!

2011-12-20T21:31:00.001-08:00

The Vid...

2011-12-04T02:20:00.000-08:00

MIDNIGHT EXPRESS !!!

2011-11-29T16:13:00.000-08:00

Yes please.

An another one...

2011-11-19T20:53:00.000-08:00

I climbed a nice one!

2011-11-07T11:25:00.000-08:00

Rocklands Videos...

2011-10-13T12:33:00.000-07:00

A few videos from Rocklands last Summer. Oh... I miss that place.

2011-09-14T18:00:00.000-07:00

Ehh..... about 52 days ago was my last blog. What can I say, it's been Summer and the weather has been hot and rainy. It seams like Fall arrived last week and now the air feels crisp and the heat is coolin' off!

I've spent most of my time lately preparing for the competition at the Nor'easter in Burlington, Vermont. I know it will be a fun time but like any competition I've competed in, I'm feeling a bit nervous about it. I just hope I can represent for myself in a strong way.

After the Nor'easter I'm going to be shifting into more outdoor climbing and forget about the gym for a while.

If anyone has a few minutes check out this trailer from some friends of mine. The areas look truly amazing!!!

Rocklands video...

2011-07-23T05:37:00.000-07:00

The first problem was done at the beginning of my trip. The second was done on my last day.

Rocklands...

2011-07-17T05:55:00.000-07:00

It’s rough coming back to reality after an international trip. Even rougher when that trip was amazing. Coming back from South Africa is no exception. Truly amazing. Our five week trip to The Rocklands was one of our best. Our time was filled with great people, beautiful landscapes, and delicious food. And the boulders. I cant even begin. All I can say is next time, five weeks is not enough.

I climbed many classic V11 and V12’s. Some of my favorites were Golden Virginia, Witness the Sickness, The Amphitheater, Shosholoza, and Steak House. My best efforts were on, Ray of Light, El Corazon, and Amandla.

I cant wait to get back!

Here is what I climbed on my trip.

Stretched and Pressed (flash) 7c+

Golden Virginia 8a

Pendragon 8a

Green Mamba (flash) 8a+

Shosholoza 8a+

Panama 8a

Pinotage (flash) 7c+

Paula Abdul 7c+

Witness the Sickness 8a

Black Shadow 8a+

Ray of light 8b

Armed Response 8a+

Steak House 8a+

Royksopp 8a

Amandla 8b+

El Corazon 8b

The Amphitheater (flash) 8a+

I captured most on video and will be posting soon.

New video...

2011-05-12T09:02:00.000-07:00

I've got two new videos up on the Moon Climbing site.

Slashface & Purity Control. They're the first two in the USA video section.

Some Austin DWS'ing...

2011-04-30T19:25:00.000-07:00

Deep Water Solo/bouldering in Austin, Texas

2011-03-25T16:35:00.000-07:00

The last 36 hrs have been great for me,

Uconn won.

Duke LOST!

And I FINALLY climbed this little boulder called Echale.

Thas for you Earl!!!

2011-03-07T09:33:00.000-08:00

After braving dust storms in El Paso.

I am back home in Boulder. I've been doing some soul searching as to why I haven't felt "on form" lately. Looking back over the years I've always felt best when I climb 90% outside. So I'm going to make it simple on myself. No gym memberships, just the boulders.

Here are two pics from the 2nd or 3rd move of Fantasia, a great roof that I've enjoyed climbing on lately.

Night sessions...

2011-02-11T06:23:00.000-08:00

I've been feeling pretty lazy the past few weeks. Not big Bill. He's putting in work, late at night. Always brining his A-game.

Untitled from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Training hard...

2011-02-07T07:31:00.000-08:00

Not much going on in Ct. People are shoveling off their roofs. I've been stuck inside training very hard.

When I've had some rest I've been training my lil' bro for the big leagues.

I've also made some time for fun too.

I'm looking forward to climbing again soon. Next week I'll be back in CO for a week,

then back again to El Paso!

Glastonbury....

2011-01-28T08:45:00.000-08:00

I've been planning a trip back to CT for some time now. My Mother and Josef built a new addition on their house and offered my the painting job. I was very much looking forward to working and climbing while Im back.

Now I'm just looking forward to working....

Another Sydney Sensation...

2011-01-03T10:10:00.000-08:00

Here you have another great v11 boulder problem in Sydney. Like most of the problems around Sydney this one doesn't top out. For me top outs are arbitrary. I mean I'm not concerned with a long top out that adds nothing to the difficulty of climb. I guess you have to weigh out the pros and cons for anything that seams dangerous. Fortunately this boulder just ends half way out a huge cave so there is really no were to go. I love to climb great moves and this one does not disappoint.

Combat Wombat from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Cowboys still do exist in El Paso.

2011-01-02T09:16:00.000-08:00

Real cowboys do exist.

I just returned from a three week trip from El Paso. It has become a ritual of mine now. Four straight seasons in a row are making me feel like a local. Maybe not that severe. Although I am beginning to have a soft spot for the harsh place.

This year I was a bit off form on my arrival. In effect my first week and a half was a warm up of sorts. Repeating some classics falling off some others. Fun at first but boring soon there after. Another theme for my trip other than my time spent warming up, Hueco was warming up too. So far the warmest winter on record. Lower 70's was common. True vacation weather. It wasn't primo by any means but acceptable. I put some time into old projects. Tried a few new ones. left excited to get back.

Chrtstmass Dinner at the Strong's

Santa even showed up!

Now that the holidays are over, it's time for me to start training again. Or something!

Aussie Vid

2010-10-22T11:44:00.000-07:00

Here's a short video of a great problem in Sydney named, Contact...

Contact from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Deadpoint Video...

2010-10-05T18:43:00.000-07:00

Please check the link below to see one of my video from my trip to Australia.

http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/phillip-schaal-bouldering-australia

The end approaches...

2010-09-29T09:25:00.000-07:00

With a few days until the notorious road up to Wolvo-land closes I've been trying to get up there as much as a can. I've made there once last week and going again today.

The other day was a bit different than my last arctic experience.

It's been real hot instead of cold for the last days in September.

JP climbing in the hot sun, hopefully the fall is coming soon.

Rocky Mountain High...

2010-09-22T13:58:00.000-07:00

After spraining my ankle and then leaving for Australia, I felt like I missed out on the Wolvo-land action. I was looking forward to climbing there more once I returned back.

I headed out with Pinto last weekend to scope out some of the lines I didn't see the first time I visited (before my ankle betrayed me,) I was still jet lagging and didn't climb. After that visit with Pinto I was hoping to squeeze in a few problems before the road closed.

We headed back today. I was feeling like the jet lag was behind me and couldn't wait to climb. This what we encountered,

The slushy lake.

And then snow 200 ft up the road.

Looks like I might have missed the bus this year.

OZ13...

2010-09-14T08:49:00.000-07:00

Well I just flew in from Sydney and boy are my arms tired. No but seriously my head is still up there in the clouds we were flying in. Jet lag has never hit me so hard. going over to Australia I didn’t have much of a problem. Going over I was on a night flight which I slept the entire way, arriving in the morning. Coming back I left on Sept 9th at 3PM. Then I arrived in Denver, Sept 9th at 4PM. Since then I haven't been able to fall asleep before 4AM.

Over all my trip was one of the best trips I’ve had. At first things were a bit grim in the Gramps. 10+ days of rain will get anyone down. But as soon as I was back in Sydney the sun was out and I climbed almost every day for the next 2 and a half weeks. Well I still had to put in some rest days but not that many. I needed to make up for time spent waiting to see it the rain would stop.

The bouldering fit my style around Sydney and at the end of my 2 weeks there I racked up a good amount to boulders,

L’homme obu V10

Contact V11

Combat Wombat V11

J2 V12

Abacus V12

Genesis V13

J1 V13

Catalyst V14

I will miss OZ and hope to get back again.

Well when I arrived back to Boulder I had a pair of sample Hornet's waiting for me

I couldn't wait to test them out. Even though my head was spinning I went to the gym. Then the next day I dragged myself up to The Park, to test them on real rock.

The verdict is, they are really good. Maximum toe pulling power and a great heal.

I approve!

OZ12...

2010-09-06T22:22:00.000-07:00

With only two days left this may be my last post from Australia...

I have one more climbing day left. So I'm taking a rest today for one more shot at Deep Blue Sea, V13.

Burly roof climbing at it's finest.

I tried Deep Blue the other day with Dave and some other blokes. After getting worked figuring out the moves, Dave brought us to one of his local bouldering spots close by.

Great slabs with just ok surroundings.

Some friendly creatures we came across.

Thanks Dave for the great pictures!

OZ11...

2010-09-03T23:35:00.000-07:00

It's been raining here for the last three days. Kind of a bummer since I didn't go to the Gramps in fear of rain, but not so bad actually. A number of big caves offer dry rock and good weather starts tomorrow and stays until I leave.

Yesterday I met up with Dave to check out this huge cave, Sunnyside.

Sunnyside is home to 3 lines that are each quite hard. Dave and I started working on Combat wombat, V11 (the easiest.) Shoulder moves lead to a cool toe hook bump section.

Dave sent!

I was close, falling at the jug. Then figuring I'd finish it another time or later in the day. I prematurely moved on the the burly line to the right. Chris's recently opened One Of A Kind. I was figuring out the crazy moves and by the time the light was to dim to keep trying, I figured I'd give Combat Wombat a send go. No chance! I was knackered and didn't come close. In hindsight I wish I stuck to finishing one before moving onto another. Now I double the work ahead of me.

OZ10...

2010-09-01T16:55:00.001-07:00

After a few days of feeling a bit flat on the boulders, I needed to make a change. I decided a new hair cut was in order.

This proved to be the recipe I needed. My next day back on the boulders I finished off my mini project, Catalyst V14.

After leaving Crumbly, happy to be finished with Catalyst, I realized if I headed back home I would get caught in rush hour traffic. I decided to grab bite to eat at a near by cafe and headed back to Crumbly. After a coke and vegemite cheese roll I was back to Crumbly to try Abacus, V12. Abacus is a mega classic 4-5 move power prolbem on the most amazing pinches I've ever climbed on.

I was getting close but the day was hot and the pinches greazy. It was getting dark and I only had a few tries left in me. After falling on the 2nd to last move I was planning on coming back the next day. but I knew it was supposed to rain so I kept trying. I made it back to the move I just dropped. I was so close to falling but managed to hang on. Totally shocked I hung on and finished it off.

Chris went back to the Gramps but since I'm having so much fun here in Sydney I decided to hang back. Plus I couldn't think of sitting in the car for 24 hours for potentially (if the sun came out down there,) 3 days of climbing. So Im here driving myself around which I've got the hang of quite well. I have a week left now and a few more Pj's up my sleeve.

OZ9...

2010-08-28T15:49:00.001-07:00

My day yesterday. Again another perfect day in the 60's. Sydney is the best!

J1, V13

The double toe hook finish on J1. The only method to finish this problem.Mark Withers working the moves of Chris's recently opened, liquid Dreams, V11.

Tom "The Butcher" Farrell flashing the second ascent.

The Weather in the Gramps is looking better. We are headed back on the 1st. It will be nice to get some redemption.

OZ8...

2010-08-27T06:01:00.000-07:00

Checked out another great little area called The Villas.

Climbed a cool problem called Contact.

Having a great time here but missing this girl.

OZ7...

2010-08-25T17:15:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I went climbing,

and surfing,

in the same day...

I love this place!

Living bouldering legend Dave Kellerman, Sydney bouldering would not be where it is today with out this guy.

There is a chance Chris and I will go back to the Gramps next Wednesday, depending on the weather. Redemption would be nice, but with the weather so nice in Sydney I'm happy to hang out here as well. This may be the best city I have ever visited. Surfing and climbing in the same day, amazing!

OZ6...

2010-08-21T05:55:00.000-07:00

Finally nice weather..

Very happy we decided to leave the Gramps. Now instead of nothing but rain on the horizon, we have sun!

And I managed to climb a tricky problem called Genesis.

Genesis is located at one of the many little areas that are scattered around Sydney. Probably the best urban bouldering any city has to offer.

In addition to having great areas to visit. We are staying with a gracious host that has a mini pony! Yup you heard it right a MINI PONY...

OZ5...

2010-08-18T02:43:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Chris and I ventured off into Melbourne. And yes it is still raining.

Today we are leaving Victoria and heading back to New South Wales. Maybe we will return to the Gramps if the weather changes. But at this point dry rock is the main objective.

OZ4...

2010-08-16T15:31:00.001-07:00

Since our arrival to Melbourne we have been lucky enough to be taken in by James Kassay and his family. And in typical Ozzy form they have been some of the most gracious and genuine people I have met. A family of climbers that in addition to being extremely fun and nice, own one of the newest and best climbing gyms in Australia,

Chris and I are going to train our ass's off for the next few days before giving the Gramps another shot. If we get shut down then we will head back to Sydney stopping at some areas along the way, weather permitting.

OZ3...

2010-08-15T17:22:00.000-07:00

After my last post things were looking good. All we needed was some sunshine to come our way. Well in typical form non has been given to us. On the contrary, its been really pissing down. The only day since I have been here that it didn't rain at some point of the day was my first day off the plane. Other than that it's been raining every day. We went back to that place were I said you could climb in the rain but guess what? It was soaked.

We decided to bail on the Gramps for now and visit Melbourne for some indoor climbing and shelter from the rain. We are planning on going back to the Gramps but I'm not feeling too optimistic. I wonder if i will climb more days inside than outside here in OZ.

OZ2...

2010-08-13T18:30:00.000-07:00

After a week here in Australia I've finally started to feel normal. Chris and I made the long drive to the Gramps and have set up camp. We are planning on staying for couple of weeks. So far the weather has been a bit rainy and the boulders a bit soggy. I'm hoping for the best.

There are a few places that are climbable in the rain but we need some nice days to come our way. Hopefully mother nature will have pity on us and give us some sunshine.

OZ....

2010-08-09T20:42:00.000-07:00

My first day in OZ,

Tomorrow I'm headed to the Gramps for a couple weeks. I cant wait to get there and start climbing.

Hoop Dreams...

2010-07-14T15:25:00.000-07:00

A minor set back...

Lincoln Lake...

2010-07-06T07:39:00.000-07:00

I went climbing outside yesterday and climbed a cool problem...

OZ....

2010-07-01T06:21:00.000-07:00

I have recently booked a trip to Australia.

I'm extremely excited to visit a new place. As I feel like I have been climbing on the same boulders for many years now. The guys at Pacific Outdoor Equipment are hooking up the best travel luggage on the market.

Since I've been working a lot lately, saving up for my trip. I've ignored the summer season here in CO. Instead I've been climbing inside hoping to maintain some of the strength I've built up over the last few years.

One more month to go then I'm off down undar!

Pacific Outdoor Equipment...

2010-06-11T12:33:00.001-07:00

I am very proud to endorse Pacific Outdoor Equipment.

This environmentally friendly company which is based in Bozeman, Montana, is dedicated to mountain living. These guys are innovators of high quality outdoor gear and truly care about the environment. Good gear = less waste is the motto, and believe me Pacific Outdoor Equipment has some of the best outdoor gear that I've come across.

World Cup...

2010-06-11T06:58:00.000-07:00

In minutes the FIFA World Cup begins. I'll be waking up every day at 5:30 to watch games before work.

I hope the US team will preform well against England tomorrow, its going to be a tough match...

Moving Dirt....

2010-05-26T09:02:00.000-07:00

Since the comp I've been nursing a tweak in my right arm. I think it was a combo of playing basketball everyday for 2.5 weeks and then while I was warming up at the comp it tweaked out. The result was nothing serious (I think) but my right triceps have been numb for a couple of weeks. It's getting better every day and now since I've been landscaping it seams to be improving rapidly. I can't wait for the numbness to go away so I can get back on the court! Basketball has become my first choice for non-climbing activities.

Landscaping has been really nice to me, I've been working out by shoving dirt and at the same time sunbathing, actually more like sun cooking. I really enjoy working out side and the hard labor is whipping me into shape.

Other than doing work I've been glued to the TV watching the NBA Eastern and Western conference finals. I'd like to talk more about my team(s) but since this is a bipartisan blog I'll leave my comments to myself (don't want to loose any readers, hahaha.)

On an another note I'm expecting my friends from Dungeon Training to arrive here in Boulder any day now. Last time they were so happy to see me,

that I know this time is going to be off the charts...

Lucky 13...

2010-05-17T12:42:00.001-07:00

I think the last two big comps (this weekends included) I entered I ended up 13th. I hate it!!! I would love to be a consistent top 10 competitor. I have no strategy or routine for comps but lately, I'm thinking of trying some new techniques for the week, week and a half prior to a comp. I'll see if it pays off next time.

I've come across some pictures from my first road trip spring 2000.

I was 18 in these pictures and they were all taken in May, 2000 (I know they are hard to see, some of them are on facebook.)

This is an illustration that my bru`v Dan Yagmin gave me for a birthday present. Circa May 2000.

Funny how time files.

The Battle...

2010-05-13T09:05:00.000-07:00

The battle begins this weekend.

I was happy to receive an invite to compete in this weekends “Battle in the Bubble” comp. I’ve never had much success at comps but since the weather has been so wet I’ve been climbing on plastic more than usual. I hope this help’s me for Saturdays comp. Either way I am sure that the comp will be a great time.

High Season...

2010-05-06T09:35:00.000-07:00

Getting back to Boulder all I can think of is getting up to Evan's and RMNP. This could be my 6th season and even though I don't have much left I still cant wait to get up there. I just love being in the park, the hiking, scenery, and of course the climbing.

Since I'm starting to feel impatient I decided to make a throwback video from summer'08. All the footage is crap but it brings back good memories.

Colorado Summer '08 from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Back Home...

2010-05-01T08:23:00.000-07:00

Well a whole month has passed by since I left Boulder. Cali was fun I must say. Even though my main objective was helping my father I still climbed a lot. The Bay is great spot for that city life. Spending my time climbing in Oakland and the rest of the East Bay was exciting. Taking the train to climb and get around was fun. Although Oakland has its problems with crime, like all cities do, Oakland and the rest of the East Bay offer many great options for many great days spent. One of my regular stops out there was The Dungeon. It's a great woody nestled in quaint West Oakland.

I put together a little video of my favorite problems. The Dungeon 7C circuit...

The Dungeon from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Cali Update...

2010-04-12T17:29:00.000-07:00

Well, I wish I had some news to update about.

I've been in Cali acting as my fathers caregiver for the past 12 days. Although I've been busy helping my Dad, I've also had some time to climb. I've been training on some boards around the East Bay with my friend Will from Dungeontraining.blogspot.com.

I've also spent some time filming some problems at Mortar Rock, in the Berkeley hills.

There are a few new problems that I'm keen to do. But I'm not sure if I'll have time for them while I'm playing nurse.

I guess I'll just hope for the best and in the mean time, train, train, and train...

I'm Going Going Back Back to Cali Cali...

2010-03-31T11:47:00.000-07:00

Yep...

Thas right I'm leaving tomorrow. I'm going to miss Boulder!

But I'll be back just in time to get some late spring days in the high country.

What I'm Up To..

2010-03-26T11:07:00.000-07:00

I've been enjoying the spring skiing at Eldora. After the last powder day (Eldora got 18 inches)

my appetite has exploded. With the possibility of more snow this afternoon climbing outside is ...... In the mean time I experimented with some home made doughnuts.

I'm also going to be leaving for Cali (East Bay) soon. I'm hoping to climb out side as much as I can but I have a feeling that I'll be training indoors (The Dungeon) mostly.

RRR Recap...

2010-03-25T07:55:00.000-07:00

What a great weekend. Over all a complete successes. I think I had one of the best clinics!

Off To Sin City...

2010-03-18T10:42:00.000-07:00

Yeah, well its time for the Red Rock Rendezvous and I cant wait to get there. This weekend is going to be great. Meeting new people and checking out new climbing areas is always fun. I'm also going to be teaching some footwork clinics on Saturday and Sunday. So it looks like it's going to be a exciting event.

I was a little bummed that I didn't finish Echale this week.

Hopefully once I get back I'll have some more time on it before I leave for California.

PUNT!

2010-03-06T17:21:00.000-08:00

I've been back at climbing for about the last month. Today I felt like I had the same strength I had before my rest. For the most part gym climbing is what I've been up to. Also making sure to get outside a few times a week too. Back in November before I left CO for a few months, I was close to finishing a hard problem in Clear Creek named Echale. All negatives aspects aside, Echale is a stout roof that requires alot of power.

Is Echale chipped?

Yes

Is it glued?

Yes

Is it dug out and a bit low ball?

Yes and Yes

Well there are some pros too. Its not sharp, its very powerful, the moves are fun, and it's easy to climb on without a spot. The rock is good quality too.

I've worked on Echale on and off and have gotten close to finishing it in the past. Today after another few days on it building up the strength I almost finished it again. What screwed me was some clever beta for the hard campus finish (well I thought it was clever beta at the time.)

But today I realized it took effort instead of just campusing and I dropped the last move feeling strong.

Bugger! Well I'm also very happy to have gotten that far which means I'm getting my strength back.

Chipping holds is a bad idea. Good moves on good rock are what I'm about. Add in a safe landing and it's a hard one to ignore.

Power Struggle..

2010-03-04T08:40:00.001-08:00

If anyone in the North East misses this comp they are going to be sorry. My friends at Prime Climb always but on a great comp. And believe me it will be a good time. No paying for a slice of pizza there.

So I urge anyone who is thinking about it to just go, you won't be disappointed...

The Road...

2010-02-19T08:28:00.000-08:00

It's been a difficult road back. Still I have yet to feel that snap, or that lightness. I did climb 3 v10's in the gym the other night. This brought a little smile to my face but I have still a long road ahead of me.

On an other note, I will be representing Metolius at the 2010 Red Rock Rendezvous.

I have never climbed around las Vegas so I'm very excited to visit a new area and attend such an event as the Red Rock Rendezvous.

In addition to the Rendezvous, The Hueco Rock Rodeo is something I've been thinking of attending. It's coming up soon, next weekend!

2010-02-09T09:28:00.000-08:00

Last Saturday I decided to start climbing again. It had been about three weeks since I last climbed. My plan was to wait until after the Super Bowl to start climbing again, but I figured that starting up a few days early wouldn't make much of a difference. Nikki myself and a few of our friends headed into the flatirons. As we make our way to the satellites I was unsure of how my first day would be. I just wanted to scratch up my tips and get ready to train again. As I warmed up on the savage rock that makes up the flatirons I didn't have much expectations for the day. Our first stop was The Turning Point.

This has got to be one of Boulders most photographed boulder problems. I had never tried it and thought it would be a good one to try my first day back. And after a few goes I sketched my way to the top.

After we climbed on the the iconic Turning Point. I rallied the pads down to Flesh Fest. With absolutely no expectations other that just wanting to scratch my tips up some more, I started working out the moves. I was having fun figuring out the technical bottom and figured I could put it all together. And after a few tries I totally surprised myself by climbing to the top. What a great first day back!

SICK...

2010-02-04T12:43:00.001-08:00

In previous posts I've mentioned that I've done some filming for an upcoming climbing movie. I'm Happy to let you all know that the film is done.

My Friend Taylor De Lench has put together a great film. I'm really excited to have been a part in this film and will have details as to where to purchase it soon. Taylor has been working hard for over a year on this project. It's not the easiest thing to do, making a good climbing movie. Dealing with weather, stubborn climbers and anything else that can go wrong can damper anyone's spirits. Good effort Taylor you deserve it.

Hueco-4, Phil-0

2010-01-28T13:56:00.000-08:00

After a few weeks punting in Hueco Nikki and I decided to leave. We were so home sick! We drove back to Boulder just in time for me to catch a ride to Winter OR. My good friend and Himalayan veteran Dave Watson (also from the glorious state of Connecticut) was driving to Salt lake from his current residence, Minneapolis MN. Dave showed up at 11:30 Thursday night and after a few hours of sleep we hit the road at 4 A.M. We spent the next few days at the trade show doing trade show things. Very exhausting! After the show we stayed in Salt Lake and skied a day at Alta. I had a blast hanging with Dave's friends. And even got my first face shot, as skiers call it.

Now I'm back Boulder and have a loose plan to rest until after Super Bowl. We'll see if I can hold out that long.

I would recommend any readers of my blog to check out Dave's site www.k2tracks.com

California....

2010-01-15T18:05:00.001-08:00

After a week and a half I still have nothing to show for my time in Hueco.

Here I am trying to ascend Sunny Side Up. Sunny Side is a cool climb that climbs some uncool rock. The moves are fun and when I get back to Hueco I'm excited to finish it off. Which leads me to my next bit of information. I'm in The Bay for the weekend for a family reunion. My Mom and Dad will see each other after only 20 YEARS! I'm so happy to be able to see my Mom and Dad in the same room. Not to mention Josef (my other dad) and my brother Billy is here too.

I'm planning on growing some skin while I'm here in The Bay. But what is a visit to The Bay without a stop at The Dungen!

Yes fukin Yes!!!!

On a side note the video of Trinity is up.

Check www.deadpointmag.com for the video titled, Three to Remember for the footage.

Happy New Year...

2010-01-08T11:36:00.000-08:00

I know I'm a bit late. Nikki and I are shacked up in a hotel without any internet. So far I've spent the beginning of 2010 trying to regain fitness that I lost over the holidays. We are here in Hueco now so that won't be to hard to do.

With the new year I'm going to post my tick list for 2009,

Theater of the Absurd V10

The Speed Dyno V10

True Bleau V10

Golden rows of Flows V10

Crusher V10

Slider Sit V10

Hot-n-Tot V10

Hydro Cloud V10 (fa)

Slice V10 (fa)

The Romper Room V11 (fa)

Forbidden Forest V11

The Puke Traverse V11 (fa)

Quasimoto V11

Owl’s Layer Proj V11

Crouching Dragon V11

Venus In Scorpio V11

Litz problem V11

Chablanke V11

Le Chinkle V11

Satan’s Choice V11

I Comb My Hair like God V11 (fa)

Random Man V11

God Module V11

Trinity V11 (fa)

Bleeding Brothers V12

Serendipity Moment V12

Devil Eyes V12

Super Prowers V12

3rd Story Man V12

Chinese Connection V12

Don’t Worry be Snappy V12

Pterodactyl V12

The Book of Bitter Aspects V13

Double Down V13

Nagual V13

El Techo V13

Diabolic V13

Dan’s Moment V13

Roses and Blue Jays V13

Agent Orange V13

The Chelsea Smile V13

Top Notch V13

Free Range V13

Ode to The Modern Man V14

Jade V15

Hopefully the next time I post up I will have some good news from Nikki or myself.

Trinity...

2009-12-09T09:05:00.000-08:00

The first of my three projects went down the other day.

Trinity, V11 was the outcome. This one had been on the table for years. But due to the horrible landing it was never really tried. A few weeks back Leif, Dan and I did some work to make the landing better. After a some work another stunning line goes down in CT. Thanks to Doug Hyland for the pictures.

Now as I'm writing this, 5 fresh inches of snow is getting rained on to create the most slushy conditions. I predict lots of icy top outs...

Still Grinding Away...

2009-12-05T08:39:00.000-08:00

Little has happened since my last post. I've still been grinding away at my projects. Still hoping to climb one. The weather has been ok, a mix of sun and rain. I've put alot of work into this particular project close to home.

Although a bit low ball, this one packs a punch. I one mover if you may. I've spent 4 days on this one move.

Just a bump to a 3 finger edge,

4 days and finally I stuck it once. I'm not sure how tough it will be. But after making some repeats in the area. Climbing on this one feels like it could clock in around V12/13.

I hope to have the good problem of coming up with a name and grade soon.

The PJ's...

2009-11-22T05:59:00.000-08:00

Since my unexpected stay here in Ct. started I've been steady searching for those new lines. So far I've come across a some large boulders, unfortunately mostly choss. But there are still stunning lines out there. Some of them are all ready to be climbed and some still need to be found. All of the climbs that I have my eye on here in CT are all new lines. I am very excited to hopefully climb some of them during my stay here and also excited to share the media.

Change...

2009-11-20T07:16:00.000-08:00

"The only constant in life is change." Some good advise my father instilled in me at an early age. I recently had some plans change and now I find myself back in CT for about a month. I am excited to be here since it was unexpected. Hopefully the weather will stay perfect for climbing.

So far the weather has been great. After a few nice days in Rumney I meet up with a friend yesterday at Bradley in my beautiful state of Connecticut. Knowing that climbing at Bradley is kind of a sensitive issue I'll say this. I grew up 20 min away and since the climbing there is risky I do what I can to stay under the radar.

With that said yesterday I was out with my friend shooting for his up coming video project. I was not feeling in top form, 3rd day on and with bruised tips from the previous two days on The Fly. After warming up lightly I ran a lap on Busted Shadow. Then gave The Book a few burn's. I surprised myself with a repeat. That was unexpected I thought, maybe I should give the low low start to Busted Shadow a try. I had done it last year and just need to practice the first move a bit. Then the next thing in knew I had repeated this one as well. Although just repeats I still felt very satisfied. Maybe staying around for a month will not be so bad.

The Magic Forest...

2009-11-16T17:02:00.001-08:00

If you love climbing or are wishing to climb in Font watch this movie.

Many climbing films can be repetitive and cliche. This movie contains depth, action, and many many good problems.

Highly recommendable!!!

Long Day...

2009-11-15T08:04:00.000-08:00

So after driving in circles around Boston for three hours and going to the wrong gym, I finally made it to the comp (1.5 hrs late.) I dragged my mate Ty with me who has been busy with lots of school work and hadn't climbed but only twice in that last 3-4 months. We quickly secured our spots in the finals and then waited for the finals to start. Over all, the comp was fun and we had a good time. The final problems were a bit too power endurance for us since we are more accustom to powerful problems but non the less they were set well. I ended up getting 3rd and Ty was somewhere a spot or two behind me. Not bad mate considering, climbing in a pair of my shoes, sharing a chalk bag and climbing off the couch!

I'm not sure what's on my plate for the rest of my time here in CT. The weather look good for next week so I guess I'll see what happens.

I'm really excited to see 2012. THE END IS COMING SOON!!!

The Dark Horse....

2009-11-13T05:26:00.000-08:00

Tomorrow I will be going to the first competition of The Dark Horse series, which will be held at Metro Rock in Boston. My friend Dave Wetmore will be setting so the problems should be outstanding.

On a side note I want to explain why some comments were taken off my last blog post. I was unaware of a few access issues and I was politely asked to remove some of my comments concerning PA.

I would never remove a comment based of something I didn't like or found to be insulting. I love to get comments and encourage people to leave comments. They make the blog exciting for me.

I'm not sure how long my time in CT will be. I'm hoping to get in some outdoor climbing since it is November (the best month for conditions). Luckily the weather for tomorrows comp looks like pure hell (80% rain). Great day to be inside without sacrificing a nice day outside.

HP40...

2009-11-10T06:49:00.000-08:00

I just arrived back to the Beat (Hartford CT). I was at the Triple Comp at HP40 this weekend, which was great. I didn't win or even place, (Big Surprise). But I did climb much better that I thought I would. The best climbs that I did were, The God Module V11, Slider Sit V10, Hot-n-Tot V10, and Step Child V8. I did a bunch more climbs but those were my fav's. I think I might have ended up 5th so I can't complain too much. My hats off to the winners who climbed very well.

Oh, by the way I only split one little tip at the HP40 comp compared to 6 split tips at Hound Ears...

Free Range Video...

2009-10-31T08:34:00.000-07:00

The Free Range video is up. Visit www.deadpointmag.com

Free Range...

2009-10-26T22:28:00.000-07:00

I love having good climbing spots in my backyard. Boulder Canyon has got to be one of the best backyard spots in the U.S.. Since the end of this years park season come for me. I've been giving my local spots more attention. Free Range (the V13 sit start to Cage Free,) located in Boulder Canyon is in my opinion one of the best test pieces around. A hard tricky start climbs into a desperate dyno to the lip. I've had my eye on this one for a while.

So after a snowy day waiting around for the weather to clear up. I headed up and, Did Work!

Free Range !!! Video soon...

Ode...

2009-10-13T05:50:00.000-07:00

Check out www.deadpointmag.com for a nice day out at the Dali wall!!!

Ty combs his hair...

2009-10-11T19:36:00.000-07:00

Crazy events have brought me back to Ct. for a week. I wish it was a good reason why I'm back but either way I believe things happen for a reason and in the end, it will be ok.

I have managed to climb a bit while I've been back. Today I dragged my lil' cuz Tyler out. Ty has been focusing his time on school work and not climbing much, so I didn't expect him to come and beast one of the hardest problems around.

We warmed up on some classics then went straight to this amazing test piece named Suspect Device. Suspect Device is graded V11 and I bet people reading may think "One of the hardest around?" Well The grade on this one doesn't really matter much. I've only heard of one person climbing it in a day. Most people have spent a few days on it. I spent about 5 years on it before I climbed it. Needless to say this is a savage line and very respectable to climb it, let alone in a day. Ty made very quick work of it after nearly flashing it (flashing way past the crux.) He may look a bit rusty at the end but the strength to get through the beginning is still there. Nice one mate!

Suspect Device V11 from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Hound Ears...

2009-10-06T10:43:00.001-07:00

Post savage climbing day.

Hound Ears was lot of fun. A lot of sharp holds and many problems left me brutalized.

I think I may have ended up 4th which is cool since every problem I did was new for me. And all were done with 5 split tips. One tip had 3 splits on it WTF!!!

The hardest one I climbed was called Random Man V11,

Thanks to Dave Wetmore for the stills. And check out www.meaning2memorize.com for Max making the 2nd ascent and me having a nice freak out. Just one of many I had during the day. I know I'm a P. Ham.

All jokes aside the comp was great and I would tell anyone to go. The organizers did a great job and if I'm around next year I'll be there.

A report from the CO high country is that a fresh foot+ has fallen. This may be the end of season but you never know what will happen up there. It could be 80 deg. tomorrow.

Training Hard...

2009-10-01T11:04:00.001-07:00

Climbing in RMNP can be pretty dangerous.

But in the end its worth it.

I've been climbing alot outside preparing for this weekend. Tomorrow I'm leaving for the first of the Triple Crown Bouldering Comps. The first comp kicks off Saturday morning at Hound Ears, outside Boone N.C.. I lived in Boone for 4 months during the fall of 1999. I climbed my first V6 and V7 there at Blowing Rock. My time in Boone opened the door to bouldering for me. Needless to say I'm excited to go back for the first time in 10 years.

Yesterday as my final training day, I headed back to Upper Chaos to circuit and climb Pterodactyle. The weather was snowy and a bit wet. The thought of toping out the highball-ish Pterodactyle seemed crazy so I headed over to the savage little Friday the 13th.

After running a lap the skies cleared but enough to give Pterodactyle a burn.

After figuring it out the other evening. I knew I had a good shot to send first try. I pulled on and pumped my way to the top. I had dropped back from here two times before. This time I knew what to do and toped it out. Not that it's the scariest thing I've climbed but it's the scariest in a while so my heart was beating pretty fast. I spent the rest of the day circuiting and left exhausted.

When get back from N.C. I'll be spending most of my remining time in the park this season, suffering on Aslan.

Fall Time...

2009-09-27T08:53:00.000-07:00

Yesterday my wingman J.P. and I headed to Mt. Evans for a late afternoon sesh. As readers may remember the last time I went to Evans my finger looked like this.

Last time,

This time my finger looked like this,

Which means that I finished Ode,

J is unfortunately recovering from shoulder surgery and didn't get to climb. I finished off the day repeating some classics,

hopeing to get some training in for Hound Ears next weekend. Fall is here and the conditions are perfect.

I Comb My Hair Like God...

2009-09-24T22:53:00.000-07:00

Today I went to the park with my side kick Matt. We arrived to what looked like primo conditions.

Bear lake.

I wanted to finish off my project, the undone low start to Jamie Emerson's Mirkwood. Matt was keen on Mirkwood so off we went. The clouds backed off a bit as we made it to our destination. But there was still some snow in the air. I was close last time to sending the low start so after warming up I managed it second try.

I'm not one for re-naming a sit start or low start. But since everyone else does I'm naming it, I Come My hair Like God V12(maybe). I'm not sure about the grade. My gut tells me v11 but I don't want to be a sandbagger.

Matt was doing well on Mirkwood,

But then this got in his way,

Later we walked down to Top Notch, I had been trying this for a while now. I could never do the first move. After a beta discussion I was enlightened to a new way to do the first move. And it worked.

I was really happy to finish Top Notch. The name says a lot about the problem, it is one of the best, high caliber problems.

After a day like this lunch was well deserved,

Video of each problem coming soon.

The Last Day Of Summer...

2009-09-23T14:44:00.000-07:00

I went up to the park this past Tuesday.

It just happened to be the last day of summer. From the picture it looks more like the first day of winter. It's ok though I know it's not over yet.

On the bright side my friends from Dungeon Training arrived,

They were sycked to see me and I predict the best of times to come.

Today I was blessed with the new Team shoe from 5.10,

I can't wait to climb in these. I'm also prediction that these shoes will become my new favorite.

2009-09-21T09:42:00.000-07:00

Today my mates from Dungeon Training are arriving. They are making the trip from the Yay Area, driving out in style.

I'm very sycked to have the bro's out here. And just when the temps are dropping and the summer is ending.

Good form!

Ode..

2009-09-08T13:49:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I made my first trip of the season to Mt Evans. My bro's and I left early to ensure we'd get there before the sky's opened up on us. I had my mind set on finishing up Ode since I was close last year.

I was making good progress

until,

I looked back to my last blog entry about Ode and came across this familiar image,

Kind of a bummer. Once I heal up I'll be back again. Hopefully with out another picture.

Jade Video...

2009-09-04T09:30:00.000-07:00

The Jade video is up.

Please visit www.momentumvm.com

JADE!!!!!!!!!

2009-08-26T08:22:00.000-07:00

I am very happy!!!

Hiking in light rain up Chaos Canyon, I arrived to good conditions at the Green 45. After warming up me fingers I started trying "the" move on Jade. I ended up nailing it quickly and then went form the start. I surprised myself by hitting the move first try from the start but then fell shortly after. I had a few burns that didn't amount to much and then on my 4th burn I climbed into the stand, paused on the final side-pull and fell off. I couldn't believe it and figured I'd be done on it for the day. But then a few minutes later I was all "One more burn," I knew I had to keep trying, the conditions were too good. My 5th burn (3rd day), I climbed again into the stand (barely). This time I held the side-pull sketched my feet over and was toping out before I knew it.

What a great feeling, Jade was my main goal for moving back to Co. I have many more goals but Jade was the biggest.

I'm working on the video and will have it up in a few days.

Mike Tyson loves Cus D'mato....

2009-08-22T08:19:00.000-07:00

I've been in Boulder for about 2 weeks now. Everything has been going quite well. Climbing in the park and setting up our lovely apartment has been nice. The other day I watched a great documentary called Tyson.

I know most people do not like Iron Mike but for me growing up in the 80's there was no other boxer like him and still probably today. The world of boxing is cut throat-ish and in Tyson The Movie, Mike's story is told directly from him. In the end you can't help feeling bad for him. He was a great fighter probably the best of my generation but his struggles with insecurity and rage got the best of him. It's a great movie to watch for people that still admire Tyson or who just want to be entertained.

So other than watching and writing movie reviews I've been climbing too, mostly in the park. There is no other place that I want to be right now (other that Europe.) I've been climbing on many different problems and after a few weeks of hiking and getting used to the rock I'm starting to feel better. Hopefully that means success is on the horizon.

Here are a few pictures that my mate Sander took the other day,

Me trying,

and Ty sending (again),

Top Notch.

SLC->SFO->DEN...

2009-08-12T13:02:00.000-07:00

It feels like the whole summer has passed since my last entry. I’ve spent the last 3 weeks helping my father get back on his feet after a few bumps in the road. I drove him to his house in Cali after the trade show in SLC. He was in SLC having some orthoscopic surgery. So after the Trade Show we were off. I hadn’t been climbing well so after a full 7 days off I wasn’t too concerned to climbing. I had some work lined up so I was excited to make a lil’ scratch while I was helping Dad. I knew I was going to have to get back in shape soon since I wanted to return to Colorado feeling good. Time to get back in it. I spent a few days on plastic which were very poor, I couldn’t finish V7’s in the gym. I was getting nervous. But on my third climbing day which happened to be 2nd day on. I got my friend Will, who is my main climbing connection in the bay to drive me up to Mortar Rock. The weather was crisp, and luckily for me it was going to stay like that for the next week. After warming up on the stellar eliminates at Indian Rock down the road we walked up to Mortar Rock. I had an unfinished problem from last October, Chinese Connection, V12. Its a great line with side pulls, crimps, and undercuts. The moves are great but the rock is SHARP!!! I felt the moves out again the day before and they felt desperate. Today I pulled on and just about got through the bottom crux. I knew I would finish it if I climbed into the stand start. I pulled on and just barley climbed into the stand. The stand starts with a left side pull pinch and a right hand undercling pinch. From the sit you have to drive up into the undercling pinch with low feet.

just barley still in there I made the next moves and was faced with the final hard move, a hard hand foot match off a small sharp crimp. I fell on this move for days last time around. Getting back to this point so quick after feeling horrible for days, I got a surge of energy. I took one second to gather myself and drove my foot up and nailed it. What a great feeling.

Indian and Mortar Rock are special places for me. I started bouldering here during summers spent with my Dad as a teenager. Whenever I do a new problem here I get a little sentimental. soon had the same feeling, with an ascent of Don’t Worry Be Snappy, V12. Snappy is an extremely cool problem. The meat and potatoes revolves around a difficult right hand lock off to a blind pocket crimp.

New beta has been found by pressing your palms in a roof and to shuffle yourself to the pocket crimp. It seemed weird to me and I wanted to climb it with its original sequence even if it may be harder. These problems are gems.

Another thing I did aside form climbing and hanging out with Pop’s, I read Jerry Moffatts autobiography, Revelations. Jerry has been a hero of mine since the beginning. I love british climbing culture and was excited to read his story. All I can say it that anyone that has dedicated their life to climbing like me should read this book. It is filled with exciting stories and really was a joy to read.

We Have Arrived...

2009-07-18T07:36:00.000-07:00

After 3 days of driving

and one day of apartment seeking, Nikki and I made it to Boulder and found a great place to live.

I couldn't be happier. Although I haven't felt in-tune with climbing I'm sure once I get back from the trade show all will fall into place. Since arriving to Boulder I've had a few sessions at The Spot (which were lackluster,) in preparation for the Mammut Bouldering Competition. I don't have any expectations since my competition record is pure shit. I just want to feel good and climb my best, which seems far away at the moment. I'm excited for the end of Summer/Fall season up in RMNP, once I return to Boulder. After the trade show I will be spending some time with my Father. Since he lives in the Yay Area I'm sure there will be some climbing involved too.

Finally, liberation....

2009-07-06T10:05:00.000-07:00

Three days in a row without any rain. Now its just hotter than hell (80+ deg) outside. I finally touched real rock yesterday at the Gunks.

Not the best conditions, the rock felt swarmy but none the less we were outside. Now I'll have to wait another month or so before I'll be done with everything that's going on in my life, to climb in the, PARK....

Rain Again...

2009-07-02T05:04:00.000-07:00

There's been little relief to all this rain, so all I've been able to do is climb inside. I've been daydreaming of RMNP, but with a busy next month I'll only be able to daydream. I'm hoping to make it by August. That's still a long time away so for now here's a video of The Automator (V13) which I climbed last October in excellent conditions (something I've forgotten about). Maybe if the weather keeps craping out I'll post some videos from the gym, hahaha.

The Automator from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Wow it's been rainy......

2009-06-26T16:39:00.000-07:00

Not much been going on except lots of rain. It's been the worst I can remember with the last 3 week of straight rain and nothing but bad weather on the horizon. I feel for all the outdoor painters (like me right now).

I just got back from doing two Five Ten Shoe/Stealth Paint demos.

I wanted to say thanks to everyone that made it out. And a big thanks to Carabiners and Metro Rock for having me.

Well I'm looking forward to getting out to Co. but with all this rain I might not make it out till the end of July.

Please pray to the sun god if your reading this...

Great loss...

2009-06-09T16:53:00.000-07:00

I'm sure everyone heard about Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson. I didn't know them personally except for seeing Jonny around Boulder. I have a great deal of respect for the climbing they did. Today is a sad day for anyone that new or followed these three's travels.

I send my condolences to the family and friends of these three...

Welcome all haters....

2009-06-08T15:50:00.001-07:00

After last week house painting I was happy to escape to the Gunks this past Saturday. Burg and I met up with friend Paul Jung and set off to find this lone roof problem.

This roof sits alone a 30 min walk from the car. It hosts one of the best roof problems in the North East called The Forbidden Forrest, V11.

I've wanted to climb on this roof ever since Dosage 5 featured it in one of the segments. After a strong flash run I figured some shizz out and made a nice second try ascent. After the roof we went over to another area where Burg flashed this dope V9 arete then we both made quick work of this savage lil, V10 called The Boston Tea Bag Party.

As the hot weather creeps up the rough rock at the Gunks still feels climbable.

Paul was a great guide for the day and did one better by making a quick movie containing all the ascents named above. Check www.bassforyourface.com

With a month before Nikki and I make a second run at Boulder CO. I'll be busy trying to get things ready, my updates may be a bit sparser but i'll do my best to stay up to date.

-One

Rock Spot..

2009-05-27T16:42:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to thank everyone that came out for last night's 5.10 shoe/Stealth Paint demo.

Tomorrow night I'm going to be at Prime Climb (my home gym) and hope to see you all there...

Pimpin and Crimpin

2009-05-20T04:56:00.000-07:00

I'm proud to say that Caroline Treadway from www.Pimpinandcrimpin.com posted up an interview with me along with some great pictures. If anyone has a extra minute please check it out, I'm very happy about it.

Besides my first interview, climbing has been going well too. I just returned from Rumney again where I climbed Parallel Universe (14a). Parallel is 5 bolts long, it starts with a v10 boulder problem into a very pumpy 13a/b. It was much harder for me than Super Nova based on the pump factor. I'm starting to feel like a better sport climber each trip I make up to Rumney. While I was in Rumney I was climbing with my fellow Ct. native Matt Wilder who climbed the Fly, nice one Matt.

I'm also excited to be helping Five Ten with some shoe/Stealth Paint demos here in New England. I'll be at The Rock Spot May 26th and Prime Climb May 28th. If anyone will be around I encourage you to stop by and check out some shoes and learn about the new Stealth Paint. I'll be offering to paint shoes for a 5.10$ fee.

Sport Bouldering...

2009-05-15T06:12:00.000-07:00

The rain stopped here long enough to take a trip up to Rumney. The main objective was to warm up on some of the boulders below the cliff, then try to finish off this 8c route called Super Nova. Super Nova is only 4 bolts long and tackles an impeccable face of crimps and under-cuts. It's one of the best climbs I've done. I put some work into it years back and this time around I managed to finish it off quickly. My friend Caroline Treadway was with us taking pictures and sent me the one below, thanks Caroline.

Here is a video of Nikki climbing an unnamed V6 in Ct. and me on Satan's Choice, V11, at Rumney. Satan's Choice is another one of my favorites. I remember trying this problem years ago as well. This time around I sent first try.

Satan's Choice from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Rain, rain, rain...

2009-05-09T10:01:00.000-07:00

Its rained 6 out of the last 7 days.

This weather reminds me of time spent in Font, waiting for boulders to dry, like I'm doing in Ct.

So in honor to the magic forest, here's a video that my good friend Chris Taylor put together the other day.

Fata Morgana 8a (my only 8a in font) from back in '06

N.W. Day..

2009-05-03T09:40:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was supposed to rain all day but instead the sun came out. We headed up to the North West corner and stopped at a few road side bouldering spots. The rock quality at these boulders is top notch.

Here's a short video with 3 great problems...

N.W. Day from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

The Romper Room...

2009-05-02T08:43:00.000-07:00

On a quick note I established a new V11 in central Connecticut yesterday. Crazy roof climbing with pinches and toe hooks. I'm calling it The Romper Room.

Here's some footage that I took of it the other day. Its not amazing but it will do.

The Romper Room, V11 (fa) from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

I Hate You With A Passion...

2009-04-29T18:31:00.000-07:00

I hate you with a passion is the name of an album from one of my favorite bay (yay) area rappers, Andre Nickatina. And that's exactly how I feel about Pawtuckaway State Park. I'm 0 for 4 now for that swamp. Today I thought was going to be my day for redemption. The temps were a manageable 65 deg., and the rocks were dry. I thought I was in, but I didn't take into account the black flies that were out with the savageness. I couldn't focus on packing up my things with out going crazy let alone try to focus on climbing. I never understood what people were saying about the black flies. How could they be any worse than the flies in Ct. Well now I totally understand.

The place is fuked....

Who's Smiling Now....

2009-04-27T18:51:00.000-07:00

Saturday I was frowning, today I cant wipe the grin off my face. Thas right today I made the second ascent of Ty's, The Chelsea Smile, at lincoln Woods.

I was relived to finish it today since the temp's have been in the 80's. This means that bouldering in the North East will become so gross, it will become pointless unless frustration motivates you. My friend Taylor was out filming for his upcoming bouldering movie, so keep your eyes out for it.

Shizza!

Excuses, excuses...

2009-04-26T05:42:00.000-07:00

Well I'm sure as hell not smiling after yesterday. Nikki and went to Lincoln Woods on what was the hottest day of the year. Now today will beat yesterday, summer's arrived. With temp reaching into the 80's and black flies swarming, it wasn't an ideal day to try a nasty sharp crimp problem, The Chelsea Smile. Regardless of conditions I managed to fall on the last move twice for a grand total now of four times. I'm worried that time is running out for this sort of climb here in the sweaty north east. I'll give myself more time since it is still April and it cant be over yet.

Here is Ty making the first ascent.

Untitled from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Don't call it a comeback....

2009-04-18T07:20:00.000-07:00

I've been out of touch with the blog lately. Colorado was a nice relaxing trip but I didn't get much climbing in. Now I'm back in Ct. trying to make a comeback. I have my eye on a few more boulder problems in the north east. But with the spring season more than halfway over its time to "Harden Up". Another problem that might explain my lack of blogging is, the battery for my camcorder won't hold a charge. That might explain the lack of footage. Or is it that I've been a punt lately. I'll have go with the latter.

To get some redemption from my Colorado trip. Here is a video from the boulder that I booked my ticket for, before it was engulfed in snow.

The Puke...

2009-04-02T08:47:00.000-07:00

I decided to waste my time putting up a traverse into Big Big Love, which adds 6-7 moves at about v9 into an established V7 at Great Barrington. I felt like it the outcome was V10 0r V11 since it was pumpy as hell. I would love to see a repeat but I won't be holding my breath. The line is fairly obvious and the climbing ok, but when stacked up against the other lines on the boulder it falls way short.

Next week I'll be in Boulder. I heard that people were climbing at Mt. Evans and I had some unfinished business there so I booked a ticket since the dali boulder was dry. Then two day later, the front range had a blizzard. I guess we'll see if I make up there or not.

Here is the the new classic,

The Puke from Phillip Schaal on Vimeo.

Pawtuckaway State Swamp/Bog...

2009-03-29T06:21:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I made my third trip to Pawtuckaway and like the other two times the boulders were soaking wet. I guess I'm 0 and 3 for that place. Now its raining for what looks like the next 2 to 3 days. This is the New England I'm used too...